Pisco: The Nacional brandy
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The Origin
Grapes first arrived in Peru from the Canary Islands during the 16th century brought by the Marquis Francisco de Caravantes. Chroniclers from this era pointed out that the first viniculture process that ever occurred in South America took place in the Marcahuasi Farm, in Cuzco. However, it was in the valleys of Ica where these crops largely expanded thanks to adequate weather conditions. Therefore, the wine industry developed strongly in this area.
As from the mid 16th century (1574), the Spaniards started to use the name Pisco to designate the name of a river, a town and a port, which was used as one of the most important transport means for regional trade. It was the shipping port for guano, and for silver shipping to Spain. Various chroniclers as Guamán Poma de Ayala, Pedro Sarmiento Gamboa, Fray Martin de Murúa, Bernabé Cobo and Pedro Cieza de Leon prove the existence of this geographical reference from the beginning of the Colony, stressing also the cultivation of the vine and the production of wines and spirits in the area. Also, Hair Miguel de Balboa, in their "Miscellaneous Antarctic" written in 1586 specifically mentions the valleys of Ica, Yumay and Pisco to describe the southern coast of Peru.
From the seventeenth century, and realize various columnists and other historical sources, the interaction occurs in a land conducive to grape, with a technological culture developed in the valleys of southern Peru, where Pisco brandy born. The history of Pisco is thus the story of a miscegenation that enriches our culture and we all recognize as part of our national identity within and outside the borders of Peru.
The grape crop process in Peruvian soil was so successful that wine was exported from the Viceroyalty of Peru to Spain. Iberian producers were so concerned about this that they requested Felipe II to ban this trade in order to avoid a threatening competence, which was enforced in 1641. Consequently, coastal landowner monks increased the production of “aguardiente” made of Peruvian grape and it soon became a popular beverage for its typical characteristics, especially among travelers of the region.
The earliest historical reference about the preparation of this grape “aguardiente” in Peru dates back to the beginnings of the 17th century. The well-known Peruvian historian Lorenzo Huertas states that: “We have found a document from 1613 which refers to the preparation of “aguardiente” (from grape) in Ica. This date may be one of the earliest references to the preparation of Pisco not only in Peru but also in America. The document referred to by Huertas is the will of Pedro Manuel, the Greek, a citizen from Ica, who by the end of his life declared to have among its properties, apart from a Creole woman, “thirty large earthen jars containing aguardiente plus a cask full of aguardiente containing thirty little jars of such aguardiente. In addition, a big boiler made of copper used to extract the aguardiente, with its tap cover.
Two “pultayas” one made to allow the passing of the tap and another little one in better conditions. This is the oldest evidence about aguardiente found in Peru related to the production of aguardiente. It is important to keep in mind –according to Huertas – that although the will was signed in 1613, these production tools existed long before that. (Research study carried out by Dr. Lorenzo Huertas Vallejos, Production of Wines and Derivatives in Ica, 16th and 17th centuries, Lima, 1988.
It is also important to point out that “El diario del Peru” (The Journal of Peru) of Hugh S. Salvin refers to the city of Pisco” located about a mile away from the beach. As any other city in Peru, it is built as follows: a big square in the middle and streets that go from each side of the plaza at right angles … This district is famous for the manufacturing of a strong beverage named after the city. It is distilled from grapes growing in the fields on the way to the highlands, five or six leagues away”. Moreover, in his study “Testimony of Peru” (1838-1842), Johan Takob Von Tschudi states, “...in the small city of Pisco, half a league away, there is a secure bay with good anchorage. It is famous for its noteworthy aguardiente exports.
The grapes have an excellent quality, very juicy and sweet. Most of them are used to distill aguardiente, an exquisite brandy for sure. This brandy of the Ica valley is supplied throughout Peru and most of Chile. The common aguardiente is called Aguardiente of Pisco because it is loaded in this port”.
The Peruvian grape-based brandy, Pisco, soon gained prestige throughout the world and its exports increased considerably as it is registered in the news of maritime trade with Peru in the 17th and 18th centuries, along with statements and reports from different travelers of the 19th century. These statements refer to the typical conditions of the Ica and Moquegua valleys and the techniques developed by Peruvian ceramists, who obtained a product of high quality that today has become a symbol of pride and tradition.
As historians have proved it, export of Peruvian grape brandy was made by sea to different parts of the Colony departing from the port of Pisco. However, a fact that must be taken into consideration, i.e. the Peruvian aguardiente was stored in the old famous “clay pitchers” made in this region and coincidentally called “Piskos”. These two main facts prove the way this product and its name were stamped forever since.
The Peruvian origin of the denomination of Pisco has been recognized all over the world. For example, we can quote the Dictionary of the Royal Spanish Language Academy, which in its last edition defines Pisco as an “aguardiente originally manufactured in Pisco, a Peruvian location”. Thus, the Encyclopedia Britannica defines the word Pisco as “a city, Ica, located in southeastern Peru.… recognized by its brandy made of muscatel grapes.”
Definition of Pisco
The Pisco is the Peruvian grape brandy obtained from the distillation of the fresh fermentation broths exclusive grape (grape juice), following traditional practices established in the zones, producing previously recognized and declared as such by national law . The only Pisco producing areas are the coast of the departments of Lima, Ica, Arequipa, Moquegua and valleys Locumba, Sama and Caplina the Department of Tacna in Peru.
On the coast of Peru are located a valley, a river port and a city called, from the beginning of the Colony, Pisco. Linking Pisco with geography and Peruvian toponymy is therefore indisputable. The liquor Pisco, Peru's traditional drink, and "flagship" Today the world offers quality long lineage and own roots.
Types of Pisco
Pisco Quebranta
The list below contains recognized types of Pisco developed thanks to the ability and creativeness of Peruvian "pisqueros", which nowadays are recognized worldwide.
- Pure: from Quebranta grapes. Other non-aromatic varieties such as the Mollar or Black can also be used
- Aromatic: from aromatic grapes derived from the family of muscatels.
- Green Must: originated from the distillation of grape musts in fermentation process (this refers to the musts in which sugar has not been transformed into alcohol)
- Acholado: results from the distillation of musts of different grape varieties.
Production Process of Pisco
Pisco is obtained after many working steps, from agricultural processing to manufacturing (preparation) of the product by artisan or industrial methods or both.
From the agricultural aspects (field preparation, crop selection, etc.), we are interested in those related to the grapevine crop, starting with impale and ending with removal, which we will describe in short before discussing the manufacturing process of Pisco.
Impale starts in July when the grapevines are tied with wet cattail to logs of "huarangos", "espinos", or "sinamomo", forming "galeas" or "barbacoas" to make it grow horizontally. These logs have been previously cut and moved to the site, representing one of the most demanding parts of cultivation, according to farmers.
Pruning starts during at the beginning of August. A large group of farm workers go through the galleys with tools and start cutting vine shoots, getting rid of superfluous branches and buds that can prevent the plant to mature.
Grapes are taken from vineyards to "lagares" (wine press house), a kind of small pond, before being crushed or treaded to obtain juice or squash. This task is performed the day of arrival because if it is done the next day it could get acidified.
Then, the must is placed in large earthen jars or clay pitchers (also called "pisqueras"), which are taken to another place of the boulder or solar.
The pitchers are pitched in the inside and, depending on the degree of glucose and on the action of sun's rays, fermentation (the transformation of must into alcohol) takes place in a quick or slow way. In general, this process lasts 14 days, but it could take longer -after the fourth or fifth day, we can verify that it has changed into "cachina".
Fermentation takes place outdoors taking advantage of sun rays. The best period to carry it out is February to April, when the sun "hits" strongly. On the contrary, modern products carry out the fermentation of must in wine cellars, protecting from sun rays with huge concrete tanks of different content. They are washed after each operation.
Once the operation is finished, distillation takes place. The content of the pitchers are poured in proper containers such as small stills or distilleries.
The pitchers must be handled carefully because the breaking of one of them means not only losing the product, but also the container which is unrecoverable since these pitchers (which can be still found) were made by old artisans. Distillation consists in evaporating a substance and condensing it back to liquid by very low temperatures. The fermented must is put in a "paila" (large pan) or container that is placed in an oven or boiler to make it boil. Alcoholic steams pass through a cooling coil, and then it condenses into drops and starts dripping already transformed in Pisco.
By modern techniques, huge boilers are used. As we know, combustion is generated with petroleum or gas. The current traditional methods existing in artisan cellars still use "huarango" firewood that provides more heat. When working with firewood, it is said that even though the combustion time is longer, there is no sudden change of temperature, therefore the flavor of Pisco will be more palatable. The same occurs with meals prepared with firewood, which is more palatable.
Fernando Lecaros states that small stills for distillation of aguardientes are as important as old-fashioned containers where the authentic Scotch whisky is prepared.
According to Lecaros and as previously mentioned, genuine aguardientes are obtained from distillation of musts when they are still hot, mixing the distilling heads (the first litres obtained from a lower boiling point) with the result of the distillation process and putting aside lees or "puchos" (dregs).
In addition, Lecaros states that this form of distillation generates the aroma, bouquet and fragrance features of the genuine aguardiente: This form of distillation provides the aguardiente with high alcoholic degrees with a high percentage of impurities, which gives it a special feature. Depending on the distillation process choose, smoothness (characteristic of aguardientes) can be changed. So true is this fact that aguardientes called "choleros" (Pisco prepared by artisan producers in colonial distilleries), have the best quality due to the excess of impurities which in most cases are over 400 per thousand. They give rise to the aroma, bouquet and fragrance of this aguardiente, provides a pleasant palatable sensation because it completely hides the caustic action of alcohol". Finally, Pisco is obtained and passed from a barrel to a container for conservation.
Differences between Pisco and other grape “aguardientes” made outside Peru
There are five main features distinguishing true Piscos from grape aguardientes made outside Peru. These differences are not intended at prejudging the quality of these aguardientes, but pointing out objectively the existing differences.
The grape variety used as raw material: One of the most important differences between the genuine Pisco and foreign aguardientes is that the grape used for its preparation -artisan and industrial- is not limited to the aromatic grape "Moscatel". Actually, the emphasis is put on the flavor or in the aroma. This is why the most common grape types are "Quebranta" (a typically Peruvian mutation) and, in less percentage, the Normal Black and the Mollar, which are non-aromatic varieties.
Non-rectification of steams: The distillation process used for preparing Pisco is carried out in distilleries or small stills of non-continuous operation, not in continuous distilleries. Thus, the constituting elements of the genuine Pisco will not be removed at the time of rectifying steams produced at its distillation.
Time between fermentation of musts and distillation process: According to the definition of Pisco, this beverage is obtained from the distillation of recently fermented "fresh" musts. This type of process avoids recently fermented musts to remain stagnant for several months before being distilled or used for mature wines. Nowadays, distilleries for preparing Pisco should meet the requirements required by the Committee of Supervision of Technical Regulations, Metrology, Quality Control and Tariff restrictions of the National Institute for the Protection of Intellectual Property and Free Competition
No aggregate is included: In Peru, the distillation process is not suspended until obtaining the alcoholic Pisco at levels of 42° - 43° degrees Gay-Lusac. No distilled or treated water is added with the purpose of changing its consistency, color and other features that make it a distinctive product.
Process to obtain the established alcoholic content: When distillation of fresh musts starts, the alcoholic contents of the distilled product is high, reaching 75° degrees Gay-Lusac approximately. As the process continues, the alcoholic content decreases, thus, allowing other constituting elements of Pisco to make up the brandy. According to the skills and tradition of the Peruvian "pisquero", this process lasts until the alcoholic content decreases to about 42° or 43°, sometimes decreasing to 38° degrees Gay-Lusac.
International Recognition of the Denomination of the Peruvian Origin of Pisco
Pisco Premium
"Pisco" is a Peruvian designation recognized as such by several countries of the international community such as:
- Bolivia: Resolution Nº OPIB/D.O/01/98 from the Intellectual Property Bureau of Bolivia dated January 5, 1998.
- Ecuador: Resolution Nº 0962384 of the Industrial Property National Bureau, published in January 15, 1998.
- Colombia: Resolution No. 01529 of the Superintendence of Industry and Commerce of Colombia dated February 1, 1999.
- Venezuela: Resolution Nº 0345 of the Autonomous Service of Intellectual Property published in the Bulletin of Industrial Property of Venezuela dated May 8, 1998.
- Panama: Decree Nº 1628 of the General Bureau of Registry of Intellectual Property of the Ministry of Commerce and Industry by which Resolution No. 8871 No. 8871 dated July 27, 1999 is issued.
- Guatemala: Final Resolutions of files 2801-97 and 2802-97 of the Registry of Intellectual Property dated June 12, 1998.
- Nicaragua: Resolution No. 2911435 of the Ministry of Promotion, Industry and Commerce dated September 1, 1999.
- Costa Rica: Registry No 114662 of the Registry of Intellectual Property of the Ministry of Justice and Grace dated July 2. 1999.
- Dominican Republic: Resolution No. 000281 and Certificate No. 01, September 17, 2004, National Office of Industrial Property.
- El Salvador: Resolution dated March 15, 2005, National Center of Registration.
How to prepare a tasty Pisco Sour
Ingredients
1 wineglass of PISCO
1/3 wineglass of lemon juice
1/3 wineglass of white sugar
1 egg white
6 ice cubes
Angostura or cinnamon powder
Preparation
Blend all the ingredients adding a small quantity of the egg white and ice cubes. Serve adding some drops of Angostura or some touches of cinnamon powder.
References
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